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Answers to Frequently Asked Questions and Other Tidbits
Much of this is stuff I learned from Evy Avery, KJ Theodore, discussion on The Poultry Connection (see links page) and my own experiences.
I will no longer be selling Calls due to health reasons. This website will remain available as a reference for others.
If you would like to find a Call breeder to purchase Calls I would highly recommend becoming a member of the Call Club.
Through the club you will be able to network with other breeders, perhaps find a mentor fairly close to you who can help you
learn hands on and also be able to locate other breeders nationally and internationally to share information and find birds.
The National Call Breeders' Member Search page can also help you find a breeder near you.
Another excellent web resource is the Brown Egg Blue Egg Show Listing page.
This page lists upcoming shows by state. If you don't find anything close in the upcoming list, look at the page with past shows and see
if there was anything close to you last year. Most shows are held in the same location at about the same time every year.
If you know when the show was held the previous year you can check back closer to the show date for updated information.
Normal Care of our Birds and Incubation Procedures
We feed Blue Seal feed supplemented by LOTS of greens.
In summer, the kids pick lots of grass for the birds that are in wire pens.
In winter, we pick up lettuce trimmings (leaf lettuce, not iceberg) from our local grocery store.
We mark all our eggs from the pairs or trios they come from, separate them in baskets during hatching and toe punch to keep track of the matings they come from.
Our incubator is an old Sears Roebuck which is a redwood incubator made by Lahey.
We get about a 50% hatch rate including fertility losses.
Eggs are hand turned during incubation a minimum of 3 times per day.
I keep the humidity at about 60% on a cheapy humidity gauge but I also check the air cell development.
For hatching I try to keep the humidity at 70-75%.
I do occasionally spritz individual eggs during incubation if the air cell isn't growing at the proper rate.
Day-olds are fed gamebird starter and are switched to grower pellets at about 2 weeks old.
They go out into the wet brooders with a heat lamp at about 1 week old.
I keep close track of them the first few days to be sure they are getting out of the water ok and know where to go to get warm.
I do not feed any medicated feeds but this is partly due to the young being raised off the ground.
Amprollium in some starter feeds is safe for ducklings and is helpful for ground raised birds to keep coccidiosis under control.
Unfortunately many starter feeds contain more than just amprollium.
There are too many medications used in feeds for me to attempt to list them all here and I am not knowledgeable about most of those medications.
I would recommend not using any medications other than amprollium and that should only be used if necessary in my opinion.
Housing
This shows one of our breeder pens which we also use for brooders later in the season.
This shows one of our wet brooders.
The following shows a small hutch that works well for small numbers of ducks.
We have recently (2004) built a new barn that houses Calls downstairs and Peas upstairs with a flight pen that all can access.
An important consideration with housing ducks on the ground is drainage.
We will be putting in a drainage pipe under in ground swimming pools.
Ideally the pens should have a base of 12 inches of sand or gravel with another 3-4 inches of gravel on top of that.
The top layer of gravel will need to be replaced or cleaned periodically. That time is determined by how many birds you have and what size the pen is.
Evy Avery's Picture Page shows a beautiful, well thought out setup for her Calls.
Sonja's site has pics of gardens, ponds, clever pool draining techniques and beautiful pens.
Windmill Landscapes, Ltd. has beautiful little sheds and buildings for sale in Canada. You may not be able to buy but you can look for some ideas.
Backyard Chickens.com has some pics of designs by some of their members.
Biosecurity
Considering all the issues that have faced the poultry hobby in recent years and just as good practice to maintain the health of your flock, biosecurity is a very important part of keeping your flock safe.
Below is a list of ideas for maintaining biosecurity. Not all may be practical for your situation and tighter measures may be required for other situations.
The more aware you are and the more of these you practice, the better your chances of maintaining the health of your flock.
1. Quarantine all birds coming into your flock for a period of at least 3 weeks. Worm them during this time and destroy all droppings or dispose of them where they won't come back to infect your birds.
2. Don't bring into your flock any birds that show ANY signs of illness.
3. Don't sell birds that are ill to others.
4. Bleach (or Oxine) your boots or shoes before and after you wear them on another poultry person's property or even the feed store.
5. Change clothes before and after going to another poultry person's property.
6. Don't let others into your coop unless you are certain they have followed the guidelines above.
7. Empty feed bags into clean containers and burn the bags. Don't bring the bags into your coop.
8. Fix your coop so that wild birds cannot enter. As much as possible keep wild birds out of your bird's feed and water.
9. Keep rodents under control in your barns and coops.
Plaster of Paris Nest Eggs
Making plaster of paris nest eggs isn't difficult but there are a few tricks.
Use a small finish nail and gently hammer a hole in each end.
Using the same nail, pick away some of the shell at the fat end until you have a hole big enough to blow out the insides and to refill with plaster.
Set them in an egg carton with the large hole up.
Mix your plaster of paris in small amounts since it hardens quickly.
Using a syringe (with no needle) fill the eggs one at a time being careful to fill them all the way and not leave air holes.
I run a line around the egg with black permanent marker so I can tell at a glance which is real and which is fake.
The advantage to this method is that you can make them whatever size you want from bantam to goose because you are using the actual eggs.
Plan omelettes for dinner!
Shell-less Eggs
One of the hazards of raising calls is that small birds often lay shell-less eggs or they don't lay at all.
If the duck isn't laying at all or lays tiny, yolk-less eggs, there isn't much you can do.
There are a few things you can do to try to improve the shells on the eggs if your duck is laying.
We start all our birds on a breeder pellet to ensure the best hatchability of eggs.
However, I keep a bag of layer pellets around to feed to ducks that seem to need a little extra calcium to improve the egg shell.
Sometimes switching brands of feed to a better quality or just a different brand may be all it takes to get eggs with shells.
Sometimes it just takes a little longer for some birds to mature enough to produce good shells.
Early in the season many birds start with soft shelled eggs. If it is early, give them time.
Lights in their pens may cause a young bird especially to start laying before they are mature enough and mix up their breeding cycle.
If you have a lot of excitement going on (kids, dogs, strangers, handling, building projects, predators, etc.) it will often throw a flighty bird off schedule and she may lay a premature, soft shelled egg.
If you're getting alternating good and soft ones, you may want to consider the conditions around her.
There are other things that you can try but I have not heard of much success with any of them.
Helping a hatch
I typically put my eggs in the incubator on Tuesday evenings.
They are mostly hatched by Monday evening, 27 days following.
Many people say 26 days for calls but most of mine take 27 days.
It really takes a long time for them to hatch, even once they have pipped.
Mine generally start pipping through the air sac Fri night (a few) and by Sunday morning most of them are pipped through the air sac and some through the shell.
First ones out of the shell are Sunday night, 48 hours after internally pipping.
It is slow, hard work but be patient.
They'll hatch in their own time!
DON'T try to rush them with their hatching.
It will do more harm than good.
The biggest problem I have with hatching Calls is when they pip most of the way around and then they seem to get stuck and suffocate.
In a normal hatch they will pip once and then wait about 24-48 hours before they pip the rest of the way around.
Many people at this point think there is something wrong and try to interfere but be patient, this is normal.
After this waiting period, they will go back to work and start to pip a circle around the fat end of the egg.
When they get so that they are pipped about 1/2 way around the egg I often interfere and pip for them the remainder of the way (using a drywall screw) and pull off the end of the egg.
Then I let them push the rest of the way out themselves.
I don't have as high humidity as many people do (water dripping down the inside of the glass) so I don't worry about them getting enough air while they hatch but I know some breeders will make a small hole in the air cell area as soon as they see that they have pipped internally (you'll see the little bill waving around in the air cell area).
I do mark on the egg when I see the internal pip, external pip and when they start the final push to get out.
Makes for a lot of writing on the egg by the time I'm done!
Use plenty of warm water to keep any exposed membranes moist during hatching and spritz in the incubator with warm water after it has been opened to bring the humidity back up where it needs to be.
Before I go into the next section, a few words about "pipping" may be in order.
Internal pipping is when the baby bird breaks through the inner membrane in the egg.
When candling you will see the bill or beak moving around in the air cell area.
External pipping is when the baby bird breaks through the egg shell. First this will be a single hole.
Later the bird will pip all the way around the egg.
If the baby is internally pipped but doesn't seem to pip the shell after a while, I just use a drywall screw to make a tiny hole, holding the egg in my left hand and the screw in my right hand.
These are really a judgement call as to whether or not to help them hatch.
Some of them just aren't strong enough to make it, others may simply have had incubation problems which have slowed them down.
I sometimes get backward hatches where they pip someplace outside the air sac area.
This seems to be the result of insufficient moisture during incubation.
I have been able to eliminate most of this by carefully monitoring air cell size and spritzing eggs that needed additional moisture.
You'll usually have to help the entire process if they go backwards but you can often save them.
I just watch for discoloration on the egg somewhere outside the air sac area and if it happens, take a drywall screw (very sharp) and carefully make a hole in the shell in the dark spot in the center of the discoloration.
Then just pull away enough shell to make a small hole (1/8-1/4") to clear an air hole for the baby to breathe, then try to have them keep pace with the others that are hopefully hatching at the same time.
They will generally have to go a bit slower because the blood vessels are all around where they need to come out.
If you run into fresh blood, stop and wait until it dries.
There is usually some blood with the backward hatches unless the duckling is well on its way to hatching itself.
You just need to take it slow. They won't die there as long as they can breathe.
If they do, then there was probably a problem that couldn't be fixed anyway.
I have it happen in probably 1/20 where a Call that hatches just fine just dies, or dies in the shell with no apparent reason.
Use plenty of warm water to keep any exposed membranes moist during hatching.
Call Ducklings That Flip Over
There can be three reasons for babies that flip over. The first is genetic.
The babies are so round (required call shape) that when they get over on their backs, they can't right themselves.
If it happens and isn't noticed very soon, they get sort of off balance and it becomes a vicious cycle that they can't seem to get out of.
If that seems to be the problem, I put them in a dish with a cloth so that they are in a "nest" and it holds them better in position for a while until they can regain their balance.
The second reason is also genetic.
Occasionally one with bad legs can't get those legs under themselves.
The legs are too straight and they constantly push themselves the wrong direction.
That problem is easily seen as soon as they are hatched.
Either they walk normally or they don't. These I put down immediately.
The third possibility is just a normal part of raising baby ducks but can be more of a problem for shipped birds.
If they get a little bit constipated their bellies can bloat which leads to the first situation - being off-balance.
Sometimes it is hard to see on ducks but if you run a finger over the vent you'll notice it.
I just check all "flippers" to be sure they don't have pasty butts.
If they do, gently wash their rear under warm, running water.
With the butt facing in a safe direction, gently squeeze along their abdomen as you are washing to help them force out anything that may be backed up.
You may need to do this a few times to make sure they are through the problem.
The first week is the toughest and any bird still having difficulty after the first week should probably be put down.
Giving Weak Ducklings a Boost
Ducklings that have been shipped often need a booster or sometimes one is a little slow to get going.
Give them warm sugar water with a vitamin/mineral supplement and crumbled, boiled egg yolk fed by hand.
This doesn't have to be done for a long time but at least the first few days and keep a close eye on them for any problems.
Putting Ducklings Down
This is certainly not a fun job but occasionally needs to be done.
If you can bring yourself to do it, quickly snapping the neck is the most earth-friendly, quickest way to go.
Most people can't handle such a hands on approach.
The easiest solution is to get a large coffee can with a lid or some other air-tight container.
Spray a cloth with auto starter fluid (ether) and put it and the duckling in the can.
Close the lid and come back in 5-10 minutes.
For adult birds you can just soak the cloth with the ether and put it over their face in a larger container.
Ether is something that should be used with great care and in moderation but it is a method that most people can stomach if faced with no other choice.
Phallus Prostration
As soon as you notice the penis hanging out, separate the drake into a CLEAN pen by himself so other ducks don't damage the organ any further and to help keep it as clean as possible.
Successful recovery generally depends on how soon you catch it and how damaged it is when you do catch it.
Clean it in warm water, try to put it back (it will likely pop out again), and keep an antibiotic ointment on it.
If it is dried out or infected, just snip it off where you see pink (live) tissue & put an antibiotic ointment on it.
Use VERY sharp sissors, as its very tough tissue.
It shouldn't even bleed and, depending on how much he lost and his aggressiveness, he may breed again.
Give him at least 3 months before you allow him to breed again but if part of the penis has been snipped off, fertility may not return for as long as a year.
Phallus prostration is believed to have a hereditary component so you would not likely want to breed from a drake with this condition.
Prolapsed Ducks
When someone says "my birds insides are hanging out" they are unfortunately experiencing this condition.
The condition and its treatment are in many ways similar to phallus prostration in drakes yet in other ways they are very different.
Cleanliness and quick intervention are vital to a successful outcome if there is to be one.
A drake can live without any penis at all while a duck WILL DIE if this condition cannot be remedied.
The prolapse needs to be put back into the bird's body. If it can't be retained, eventually the bird will die.
This may take a number of days of washing, lubricating the prolapse with an antibiotic ointment and replacing it.
Following are a few links that may help prevent and deal with this condition:
Avian Web Prolapsed Cloaca Article and
Avian Web Information for the Breeder Article
You will need to go half way down the page to "FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO UNSUCCESSFUL BREEDING EFFORTS" and look for egg binding or prolapse articles.
There is also an excellent article at Shagbark Bantams.
Prolapse is believed to have a hereditary component so even if you save her, you would not want to continue to use her for breeding.
You can force a molt which will stop her egg production and give her time to heal.
This should only be done AFTER the prolapse is under control.
She needs the nutrients from her food to fight infection and heal.
Once you feel she has healed pretty well, then you can force a molt to ensure she doesn't start laying again soon.
Forcing a molt is done by removing food for about 3 days. On the 4th day, whole or rolled oats are provided as much as the bird will eat.
On the 15th day a low protein grower or maintenance ration can be started and fed for the remainder of the molt period.
Putting her in a dark room will also keep her from laying again.
The difficulty with this is that you have to keep her in the dark to keep her from laying.
Medicating Ducks
If you have any poultry, you ought to find a local vet to work with you long before you discover your first problem.
You'll want to build a relationship when things are going smoothly so that if you ever have an emergency, you know where to get help quickly.
Calls and bantam chickens especially are small and when a problem arises, there isn't a lot of reserve to fight off a problem.
Be prepared for emergencies before they arrive and seek help ASAP if you do have a problem.
Keep antibiotics and some other basics around in case of emergency (antibiotic ointment, eye ointment, injectible antibiotic and Oxine).
Check out the Avian vet finder on our links page but if you can't find anything there, call around to every vet you're willing to drive to to see if you can find any with avian experience.
Don't rely solely on the web to find one.
I recently discovered two avian vets close to me - neither is listed in that "Avian Vet Finder" web site.
Even if you can't find an avian vet, at least see if you can find one who may have some contacts or be willing to do some research to learn.
The key is to find a vet you trust who is willing to work with you.
One can also not overemphasize the value of good preventive care in preventing problems.
Clean facilities with good drainage and good biosecurity practices prevent MANY poultry illnesses.
Check out our links page for other health related links.
Don't be too hasty to use any antibiotic unless you know exactly what you are dealing with.
Many things are becoming resistant to antibiotics due to overuse, incorrect use, "maintenance" use and not following through with dosing.
We may lose our ability to purchase antibiotics if we abuse the priviledge.
Additionally, different antibiotics work better on different problems.
If you aren't certain what the problem is that you are dealing with, PLEASE seek the help of a vet.
Diagnosis by book or internet is incomplete and treatment may do more harm than good if you misdiagnose.
Consider the amount your entire flock is worth when you figure the cost of a vet visit or post mortem.
A post mortem costs me $30 which I consider minor when compared to the value of even a few of my birds.
It is often the ONLY way to get an accurate diagnosis of a problem.
Supplement with probiotics as soon as you start using an antibiotic and continue at least three days following the last dose.
Probiotics now come in many forms and can be purchased in many places. First State Vet Supply is listed below and carries a powdered form.
Many feed stores carry a paste form.
When giving pills, hold the duck facing away from you, pry open its bill and poke the pill down the RIGHT side.
If you put it down the left side, it will go down the trachea.
Poke it in far enough that it can't spit it out, rub its throat a bit and put it right into the water so it will take a drink.
Injectible Baytril can be given orally (RIGHT SIDE AGAIN) as well though care must be given even with this method that the material doesn't go into the lungs.
As with many things, it is a matter of balancing what is worse; a pill down the wrong side, liquid going into the lungs or infection at the injection site and stress to the bird.
Care must be taken with any method of medicating.
We use Baytril for sinus infections - so far the only reason we've needed an antibiotic.
A sinus infection is obvious - the face will swell on one side and the duck will generally have some nasal discharge.
Using the 2.27% injectable Baytril for dogs, the dosage is 0.2 cc/lb of body weight, injected intramuscularly twice daily, for five full days.
Use the vet's scale, a kitchen food scale or the post office scale to get an accurate weight on the duck.
A good source of Baytril is www.foyspigeonsupplies.com.
Another source is First State Veterinary Supply in MD (open 24 hrs/7 days). Phone 1-800-950-8387 or 1-800-308-8388 or 1-800-765-0065.
Giving injections is best done in the breast.
Find the breast bone and go out from there to the meatiest spot.
Use alternate breasts since Baytril will leave a sore lump at the injection site.
Here in NY I can buy 10 diabetic needles at a time (with drug rehab info) at any Pharmacy though Walmart is cheapest.
Your vet may be willing to write you a prescription if you can't do that in your state.
Rodney's process for injecting: Alcohol rub bottle top first.
Pull some air into your syringe.
Stick the needle into the top of the bottle and inject some air into the bottle.
Turn it upside down and draw solution into the syringe - more than you need.
Flick finger on side of syringe to get air bubbles to go to top of syringe.
Depress plunger to push the air out of the syringe and get the dosage to what it should be.
Put the cap back on until you are ready to shoot. I hold the duck (and close my eyes) and he shoots.
Covering the bird with a blanket will keep it quieter and it will not associate the needle prick directly with you.
You should wipe the site you are injecting with rubbing alcohol, making sure you get the skin, not just feathers.
Don't put the duck on its back since that just adds more stress.
The most important thing when giving any antibiotic is giving the correct dose and not stopping treatment because they look better but follow through the entire recommended length of treatment.
For fungal eye infections, use Oxine in a dilute solution w/distilled water as an eye drop.
Just put about 2 drops of Oxine concentrate into 1 oz. of sterile eye drop solution, the kind for contact lens wearers, not Murine, etc.
Medicine Cabinet
My medicine cabinet is pretty slim.
I keep Oxine with a sprayer and fogger, (KJ Theodore has a great article about Oxine and it's use on her site. Shagbark Bantams)
Baytril injectable as an antibiotic, Eprinex for worming Using Eprinex for Worming, Amprolium (just in case since if you need it, it is an emergency) and general and eye antibiotic ointments.
Angel Wing
Angel wing is a condition that occurs in young birds as the wing feathers are coming in.
As the primary feathers start coming in they turn out away from the body instead of folding in under the secondary feathers.
To correct this problem I just tape the wing in place the way it ought to be just as the wing feathers are coming in and are showing signs of growing the wrong way.
I use waterproof 1" medical tape and wrap it around the wing with the feathers in the position they should lay if they were normal.
I basically tape the end section of the wing that is growing out to the middle section of the wing.
They won't be able to un-bend that part of the wing for the time that the feathers are growing into the correct position.
Some people tape around the whole duck but this method seems to work for calls.
If it falls off, I just tape it in place again.
A lot of people use duct tape but I find it kind of sticky and hard to cut off once the job is done.
That is why I prefer the waterproof medical tape.
It still sticks pretty well but it is not so wide and therefore easier to put on, easier to get off, and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.
I take it off after a week or less and see how it looks.
If you catch it at just the right time, it only takes about 4-5 days.
If it doesn't work the first time, try it again.
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